Expert Article

Wok the Block: Navigating LA’s Chinese Culinary Tapestry

 

Think Chinese food is all about orange chicken and fortune cookies? It’s time to hit pause on those stereotypes. From Sichuan spicy delights to Cantonese dim sum, navigating Chinese food requires more specificity than a generic “I’m craving Chinese.” And if you do not know what that means, I invite you to keep reading. 

 

Los Angeles has a Chinese cuisine scene that’s as diverse as the city. Join me on this tour, where I’ll unravel the truth about Chinese food and show you some of the best Chinese restaurants around the city. I hope to prove there’s more to it than the food in your takeout box. 

 

What is Chinese Food?

At first glance, the question seems as simple as asking for a bowl of fried rice. But under the surface, it unfolds into a tapestry of complex flavors, techniques, and regional nuances. Picture China, with 3.7 million square miles of land across 22 provinces, a culinary mixing pot that reflects its immense size and history (“China”). 

 

Chinese food’s diversity is primarily attributed to agricultural differences. Food journalist Liya Sun says the North prefers noodles while the South prefers rice. Northern dishes tend to be saltier, while Southern dishes are sweet. Chinese food isn’t just a singular cuisine because each province contributes unique flavors to the broader culinary landscape. 

 

Decoding Chinese Food

Chinese food is primarily categorized into eight unique regions. While there are more than eight Chinese cuisines, Chinese chefs have recognized them as the most prominent. For simplicity, let’s focus on the following five: 


*all photos sourced from the internet

  1. Sichuan

Many know Sichuan cuisine for its spicy chilies and numbing peppercorns. However, not all Sichuan dishes are numbingly spicy; they are also famous for their fish and tangy flavors. The founder of the Woks of Life, Judy, perfectly describes Sichuan cuisine, expressing that “some dishes will cause profuse swearing after just a couple of bites, but you can’t stop eating.” Some notorious Sichuan dishes include chili oil hot pot, Kung Pao Chicken, Mapo Tofu, and Dan Dan noodles. 



  1. Yue (Cantonese)

Cantonese cuisine is undoubtedly the most popular overseas cuisine (China Travel Guide). It originates from the region surrounding the Pearl River Delta, including Guangdong, Hong Kong, and Macau. Many only know Cantonese food for its dim sum, but there is so much more. It focuses on cooking fresh vegetables, meat, and seafood in a light and refreshing way. Think of steamed fish with ginger, white-cut chicken, and barbecued spare ribs. 



  1. Zhejiang 

Also known as the land of fish and rice, Zhejiang prides itself on using the food’s natural flavor. China Highlights describes Zhejiang cuisine as “(not too) greasy, not mouth-numbing, not too sour, not too sweet, but not bland either.” Zhejiang dishes are incredibly well-balanced and are “unusually dainty and refined” (China Highlights). Some famous dishes include braised pork belly (Dong Po meat), vinegar fish, and lotus-wrapped chicken. 



  1. Shanghainese*

Technically, Shanghainese food is not one of the eight great Chinese cuisines. However, as someone who has lived in Shanghai for nine years, it feels wrong not to give it an honorary mention. Shanghainese food leans on the sweeter end and features bite-size dishes. Many dishes, such as scallion oil noodles, also use a lot of oil and soy sauce. Popular foods include soup dumplings (Xiaolongbao), sweet and sour pork ribs, braised eel, and steamed hairy crab (trust me, it tastes better than it sounds). 

 


  1. Beijing*

Although Beijing is the capital of China, its food also doesn’t fall under the eight great Chinese cuisines. Beijing is known for its imperial court cuisine, the Emperor's food. As you can imagine, they are delicately prepared and notoriously hard to master. Typical dishes include Beijing roast duck, soybean paste noodles, and mochi rolls with red bean paste.  



Navigating LA’s Chinatowns and Beyond

I could talk all day about Chinese food, but trying it yourself is the best way to learn. LA has many areas with great Chinese food; it would be a pity to leave without trying some of it. I admit that LA traffic sucks, but these places might just make it worth the wait. Note that these are just my favorites, and I encourage you to try them for yourself! 

 

Best Sichuan Food: Mountain House Rowland Heights

Address: 18888 Labin Ct C101, Rowland Heights, CA 91748

 

Mountain House has gained a significant following in New York, consistently earning spots on prestigious lists such as the New York Times’s 100 Best Restaurants and Eater NY’s List of 38 Essential Restaurants (Hang). If you’re living in LA, consider yourself lucky because this cult favorite restaurant has made its way to the San Gabriel Valley. 

 

I was immediately impressed from the moment I stepped into the restaurant. The interior design is gorgeous, to say the least. It features coy ponds, wooden booths, paper lanterns, and yellow-leaf trees, transporting you into another dimension (yes, it is THAT beautiful). 


 

The dishes are equally stunning. Mountain House’s signature dish is the “hanging clothes” pork belly, meant to create the image of laundry hung on a clothesline. The dish features thin pork belly and cucumber slices hanging from a wooden stand dipped in chilly oil and minced garlic. My personal favorite was the house steam fish. It was hands down the most tender and flavorful fish I’ve ever tried. If you’re worried about the spice level, you can always ask to lower the spiciness for certain dishes. 



Best Dim Sum: Sea Harbor Seafood Restaurants 

Address: 3939 Rosemead Blvd Rosemead, CA 91770

 

It’s hard to go wrong with dim sum in the San Gabriel Valley. Sea Harbor is my top pick because of its affordable prices, authentic flavors, and food variety. For those who have never tried dim sum, it’s essentially little bites. Think of Chinese tapas but for brunch. You can either order by ticking off the items you want on the menu or ordering from food carts that circle the restaurant. Sea Harbor uses a menu system, making it perfect for those intimidated to pick the items from the cart. Shumai, steamed shrimp dumplings (hargow), baked barbeque pork buns, steamed rice noodles, salted egg yolk buns, and egg tarts are all must-eats. 


Best Shanghainese Food: Red 99 Grill Bistro

Address: 5557 Rosemead Blvd, Temple City, CA 91780

 

Don’t be fooled by its name. Red 99 Grill Bistro serves excellent Shanghainese food. It has garnered several local fans on Chinese social media, which should tell you about its authenticity. The menu features homey dishes, evoking a sense of nostalgia for many customers. The prices are affordable for normal entrees, with lunch and dinner specials priced at $11.99. I recommend the braised pork belly, steamed fish, sweet and sour ribs, and sweet rice wine soup (this is a must-order). Beware that this place gets packed, so go early if you can.


Best Beijing Duck: Ji Rong Peking Duck 

Address: 8450 E Valley Blvd, Rosemead, CA 91770

 

Ji Rong does not disappoint when it comes to their duck. The skin is crispy, and the meat is tender, which goes perfectly with the tortilla wraps. I recommend coating the duck in sweet bean sauce and then wrapping it in the tortilla with cucumbers, spring onion, and a sprinkle of sugar. Make sure to reserve in advance. 


 

Have I Convinced You Yet?

So, the next time you find yourself craving Chinese food, remember that it's not just about orange chicken and fortune cookies. It's about embracing the richness and diversity of Chinese cuisine, one delicious bite at a time. Happy eating!


Citations

“Cantonese Cuisine – Most Popular Chinese Cuisine around the World.” Travel China Guide, www.travelchinaguide.com/cantonese-cuisine.htm. Accessed 03 Feb. 2024.

“China.” Encyclopædia Britannica, Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc., www.britannica.com/place/China. Accessed 03 Feb. 2024.

“The Eight Great Traditions of Chinese Cuisine.” Lee Kum Kee, usa.lkk.com/en/cooking-stories/the-eight-great-traditions-of-chinese-cuisine. Accessed 03 Feb. 2024.

Hang, Kristie. “Cult-Favorite New York City Sichuan Restaurant Makes Its Los Angeles Debut.” Eater LA, 7 June 2023, la.eater.com/2023/6/7/23752631/szechuan-mountain-house-west-coast-debut. Accessed 04 Feb. 2024.

Judy. “8 Chinese Cuisines & How They Differ.” The Woks of Life, 9 Oct. 2022, thewoksoflife.com/8-chinese-cuisines/. Accessed 03 Feb. 2024.

Su, Liya. “8 Regional Chinese Cuisines Explained in Depth.” Fine Dining Lovers, 29 Aug. 2018, www.finedininglovers.com/article/8-regional-chinese-cuisines-explained-depth. Accessed 03 Feb. 2024.

“Zhe Cuisine/Zhejiang Cuisine - the Mellow Seafood of Zhejiang.” Zhejiang Cuisine, Zhe Cuisine, Zhejiang Cooking Style, China Highlights, www.chinahighlights.com/travelguide/chinese-food/zhe-cuisine.htm. Accessed 03 Feb. 2024.

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